1999

By Jennifer Dudley

The count this year was seven expeditioners who set out to take in their share of the most glorious representation of the southern sky they had ever set eyes on. While many others saved their money in lieu of European eclipse vacations, these die-hard observers weren't about to miss this event. Several had been many times before, now addicted to the seeing just as Ken Willcox, the event's late founder and one time president of the Astronomical League. Though members admitted the event would never be the same in his absence, this year did bring an extra treat. It began by odd internet coincidence. An avid solar observer from Cochimbamba, Bolivia had accidentally fallen into contact with new director, Vic Winter. "You must come to the event!" Vic announced. This new friend, Mr. Vargas did more than attend. He brought a colleague. "He is my blood brother from Argentina. We studied at the University together." We could see the international camaraderie building before the expedition began. The queries from our newfound South American expert began... "What is your program?" "Can we look for Haley's comet?"

At the hotel, Vic advised the staff to expect his colleague, Gonzelo Vargas. "His name sounds familiar." said Ivan, our longtime guide and host. "Did he once have a nightclub called Starry Sky?" Ivan's brother, Stanley the staff physician also agreed that the name sounded familiar. He realized that Vic's coincidental internet friend had taught both brothers science in school over twenty years earlier.

The sky and sunlight were exactly as Vic remembered them from trips before. Warm, inviting smells wafted from the noisy kitchen out back to the observing deck as the staff heartily helped observers setup for their first night. At dinner the host made his usual announcement for new visitors about the altitude. "Beber Poquito, Comer Poquito & Dormir Solito!" which he explained meant "Drink a little, Eat a little and Sleep alone!" As the sun set oddly on what seemed like the wrong side of the sky, one could see the clear sliver of a one-day old moon. "Do you think we can see Mercury?" whispered Bruce. Leaning wobbly around to find the ecliptic, the two were able to find and point out Mercury, Venus, and Mars inline across the half-lit sky. "Wow! Would you look at that!" beamed Bruce in his loudest proper whisper. Everyone here seemed to whisper even during daylight hours. The land and water are so isolated from the noisy whir of our electric civilization that the loudest noise audible is often the gravel crinkling underfoot. Dusk fell to dark as the hotel staff prepared a station of local favorites coca leaf tea, cafe con leche' and hot cocoa. Service came in dainty fine china teacups and platters from the resort's kitchen.

The two doctors from Texas teamed up and brought a 16 dobsonian. The Drezdzon's set up their highly portable Televue Pronto and a set of binoculars. Vic setup for shooting with a ST-6 to guide and a 500mm lens. John Phelps brought his trusty 'Mongrel II". We have all delighted at the sight of the contraption he has built in the means of a travel-savvy mount. Galvanized plumbing pipe bent this way and that in the sturdiest mount for a 5" refractor ever constructed. "When it folds down into its case, it has wheels." John boasts. He has even arranged some of his plumbing into a pull-handle for the carry-on tote. Other visitors brought no scopes at all, using the house 10" dobsonian or needing nothing more than to just look up.

It takes some adjustment to traverse this site after astronomical twilight.
What we are accustomed to for dark skies can not prepare one for the utter disorientation of what feels just like the inside of a dark closet. It didn't take long for the setting sun to take the mountains' heat away with it either. Visitors were soon skirting quietly around in warm coats, gloves and snowsuits in the brisk twenty-five degree night. Soon too, the whispered questions and requests changed from English to Spanish as local Indian villagers and students came to see the astronomers and their telescopes. The year before, a crowd of over 200 Aymara Indians gathered for the publicized event. One year has spread the news of our studies fast. If it weren't for the clatter of dangling instruments, one might not have noticed the arrival of the hotel's musicians.

Zamponia pan flutes, Bombo drums, Siku flutes and the famous tiny guitar called churrango were the mainstays of local music. It was sounding like this night, the observers would have a treat. With lake water lapping the observing dock, local musicians playing and multi-language whispers, fading ambient scents of fine dining, the observers went about their arduous chore of identifying clusters, galaxies and nebulae on into the night. Weather lent no rest to the overworked group either. The skies remained clear and crisp for four more nights of the same.

Friends of Ken's and the Southern Skies Star Party have designated the
SSSP 2K trip as a special public memorial for their dear friend, Mr. Willcox. Plans are to raise funds to dedicate Ken's ideal telescope choice, a Starmaster 22" in an international ceremony with fellow astronomers onsite at the Inca Utama. If you would like to contribute to the Willcox fund and help fulfill Ken's dream, visit the StarGarden Foundation web page at: http://www.StarGardenFoundation.org .